Things to do in Zagora: the gateway to the desert

Zagora is a small town in southern Morocco, in the Draa Valley. For many travelers it is the gateway to the desert: past Zagora, the palm groves give way to dunes. Here is what I recommend when people ask me what to do in Zagora.

1. See the “Timbuktu, 52 days” sign

This is the photo everyone takes. The sign is a reminder that caravans once left from here to cross the Sahara to Timbuktu, in Mali. It took about 52 days by camel. It stands at the southern entrance of town.

2. Spend a night in the desert

This is the strongest experience in the region. You ride a camel to the camp, watch the sunset from a dune, have dinner by the fire and sleep in a nomad tent. When you wake up, the sun rises over the sand. Everything is explained on the desert camp page.

3. Go on a camel ride

If you only have an afternoon, take a two- to three-hour camel ride. The best time: late in the day, when the heat goes down and the dunes turn orange.

4. Visit Tamegroute and its green pottery

About 20 to 25 km south of Zagora, the village of Tamegroute is known for two things: its green-glazed pottery, handmade in earthen workshops, and the Quranic library of the Nassiriya zawiya, which keeps very old manuscripts. The old ksar, with its covered passages, can be visited with a village guide.

5. Climb the Tinfou dunes

The Tinfou dunes are a few kilometers past Tamegroute, about 25 to 30 km from Zagora. They are small dunes and easy to reach: perfect for a first touch of sand or a quick sunset.

6. Explore the Draa Valley

The Draa is the longest river in Morocco. Between Agdz and Zagora, its valley is lined with palm groves and ksour, the earthen villages. The road from Ouarzazate follows it for dozens of kilometers: take time to stop.

7. Go further: M'Hamid and Erg Chegaga

About 2 hours south of Zagora, the road ends in M'Hamid El Ghizlane. Then it is all track. About 60 km away, Erg Chegaga is the largest dune field in the region, quiet and wild. You get there by 4x4 or, for the adventurous, on a camel trek. I compare it with Merzouga in this guide.

How to get to Zagora

• From Ouarzazate: about 3 hours by road via Agdz and the Draa Valley.
• From Marrakech: a long day on the road (about 7 to 8 hours) via the Tichka pass and Ouarzazate.
• By bus: regular lines connect Marrakech and Ouarzazate with Zagora.

How many days to stay?

I recommend at least two nights: one in Zagora or the palm grove, one in the desert. With three or four days you can add Tamegroute, M'Hamid and a real trek.

Your questions

— Mustapha, Caravane Mustapha, Zagora